Moscow is magnificent. I can’t even think of words to describe it. There is that feeling when you meet someone for the first time and their warmth and openness assure you immediately that they are kindred spirits and there is an ease like that of an old friend. Moscow is that friend. I have barely been here for twenty-four hours and it is already the most amazing place I have ever been. In fact, I keep saying that – every other word out of my mouth is ‘amazing.’ I am becoming acutely aware of how ridiculous I sound but I can’t help it. It truly is spectacular and so much more than I could have ever imagined. The day began brilliantly. Our group of eight students (five NIU undergrads, and two outside students plus me) headed out from our fifth story walk-up to find some coffee and I was ecstatic to discover that not only can I maintain my addiction but it is quite possibly the best coffee I have ever tasted – ever. Professor Alex Gelman, who chairs the program at Northern and accompanied us to Moscow for the first two weeks, met us at the dorm to lead us to the Moscow Art Theatre School, which is approximately a forty minute walk from where we are staying. (I have the feeling that from all the walking and endless stairs I will be in great shape to run another marathon when I get back!) The walk is fantastic and could be compared to a longer, more elaborate version of Michigan Avenue with enormous statues of famous Russian heroes, incredible architecture and spectacular gardens. I couldn’t help but think how gorgeous it must look when it snows even though I am more than happy to wait a while before I see it.
When we finally got to MXAT, I was blown away by how overwhelmed I felt. This is the place where theatre as we know it was created and the awe and respect it demands is just intense. We wouldn’t be here if it wasn’t for the likes of Chekhov and Stanislavsky and to have the opportunity to study in this temple that they built for our craft is truly a life changing experience. We briefly saw the American Studio, which is an expanded wing that MXAT has built as a result of its ongoing relationship with Harvard’s ART Masters program and now programs like ours. Then we headed to the commissary for an introduction in Russian food which although incredibly basic is delicious. After a harrowing subway ride, which did little for my claustrophobia we reached the place Alex was determined we see before we begin classes. Novodevichy Cemetery is a national cemetery and the final resting place for past leaders and dignitaries like Yeltsin and Mrs. Gorbachev, famous scholars and scientists, and is where the most famous of all Russian artists, performers and musicians are buried. We purchased flowers to lay on the graves of Chekhov and Stanislavsky, as well as other inspirational artists like Gogol and while I was moved to see their graves, it was the sea of other tomb stones, people I had never heard of, all engraved with the symbol of the seagull, a sign of membership in the company that truly stirred my soul. All of these people were so devoted to their art that they wanted to spend eternity close to Chekhov with the final remembrance of their life being their work. Alex saw me staring at the tombstone of Nemirovich-Danchenko, the man who partnered Stanislavsky in the creation of the Moscow Art Theatre and founded the school the year before he died and said, “This place reminds you that this is not a profession but a calling.” And in that moment I felt my soul come alive in away it has not been in a very long time.
That evening over lamb and a pint of the strongest beer I have ever tasted we spoke about art and creation and the process that challenges and motivates us all to do this crazy thing we love so much. I have so missed having people to share this with and I can’t imagine a better way to begin our training. This place is just magic and if I had to come home tomorrow I think it would still be the best thing I have ever done.
