Sunday, October 28, 2007
October 28 - Day 41
Today I think I left Moscow or maybe Moscow left me. The sun shone so brightly this morning that it’s warmth rather than the sound of violent construction was what first woke me from my sleep. Stephanie and I decided enjoy the beautiful weather by venturing to Gorky Park. Our first thought when we made it outside the dorm was that this world could not possibly be Moscow. It was too sunny, too happy, with too many cheerful families strolling down the streets. The air actually felt fresh and for once I didn’t have the grating taste of dirt lining my throat. As we approached the park from the North however, we could the feel the early sensation that accompanies abandoned carnivals in cheesy horror movies. We walked through the golden gates to find an almost completely empty amusement park. There were unmanned game booths and rides that looked as though they hadn’t moved in years with the occasional family guiding their toddlers on a miniature pony or Big Wheel. Everything seemed to move along in rhythm to the random Christmas music blasting through hidden speakers stashed away along the avenues. It was all so very strange and we weren’t sure what to do or even if we should be there so we just tried to migrate through, drawing as little attention to ourselves as possible. But as we approached a glistening pond, the mist started to settle and the warm autumn sun lit up the park, illuminating its once triumphant glory. I could see, without too much imagination, a sea of giddy Moscovites mingling around the popcorn stands while their children squealed from the massive Ferris wheel or roaring roller coaster. Just then, two swans glided over to us and posed as we snapped dozens of photos. Suddenly everything was beautiful again - that is how fast things shift in Russia. We wandered through the private gardens that surround the park discussing all of the topics that girls love best and laughing at their ridiculous attempts to appeal to western tourists before ending up at the Tretyakov Sculpture Garden. It was enchanting and silly and heartbreaking all at once. I am developing such an intense love of sculpture being here because the work is so unlike anything I have ever seen. It all seems to defy my previous notions about both classic and contemporary sculpture and feels far more embedded in humanity then what I accustomed to seeing in the States. It was the most beautiful, unrushed day and we walked and walked until the brisk air turned bitter and ushered us towards the metro and then to our dorm for hot apple cider and a nice long nap.